There are many toilet issues that should be left to the professionals. However, not every issue needs the assistance of a plumber. In fact, some contemporary toilets come with user manuals that homeowners may consult in the event of a malfunction. We’ll go through some of the most frequent toilet problems and how to fix them. Calling the right plumber is crucial in these moments since he will be the one helping you the most. Hansen Family Plumbing is here for you in these moments, call us and we will guide you.
As a matter of fact, every commode experiences a blockage now and again, but if your toilet clogs so readily that you find yourself plunging several times a week from ordinary toilet flushes, there’s something wrong. All you have to do now is find out what it is.
It’s a recipe for disaster if your family or guests flush anything other than a reasonable amount of toilet paper and bodily wastes. Many blocked toilets are caused by hygiene products and children’s toys. Place a discretely covered trash can near the toilet to avoid the first problem; for the second, a child-safe lock should suffice.
Your fixture might be clogged by mineral buildup from hard water. You might also have a problem with venting or a toilet that is badly built. These are more significant issues that need toilet repair, mineral removal, or replacement by an expert at Hansen Family Plumbing.
Isn’t it strange that your toilet produces noise even when it isn’t in use? The unusual vibrations, whooshings, and whistlings, on the other hand, are all due to fairly mundane reasons.
A faulty fill valve or flush valve, for example, might be the source of the vibrating or whistling noise. Fortunately, replacing the fill valve is one of the most affordable toilet repairs.
The sound of a continually running toilet is unlikely to be soothing to your ears since it foreshadows a larger water bill due to the constantly fluctuating water level in the tank. Instead of wriggling the toilet handle, try inspecting the toilet handle, resetting the float arm, checking the flapper, or replacing the fill valve to quiet it down.
A whooshing sound that only happens when the tank fills is most likely caused by calcium accumulation caused by hard water. In this instance, professional cleaning of your house plumbing system may be required.
Mold under the rim of the bowl or bacteria in the pipes might be the source of the problem. Bleach, employed as a scouring agent in the first scenario or poured into the top of the overflow tube or refill tube in the second, might be the solution.
If you haven’t used the toilet in a while, the reduced level of water in the toilet bowl (due to evaporation) or tank may be allowing stinky sewage fumes to enter your bathroom. Flush the toilet a couple of times to get freshwater via the refill tube and eliminate the odor.
A damaged toilet bowl is another, more significant source of sewage gas odors. A little break in the porcelain might cause a leak, allowing sewage gases to escape by reducing the water level. Depending on the location and degree of the scrape, you’ll require toilet repair or replacement.
A damaged toilet seat is another option (that wax ring your toilet sits on). Water and odors will seep out onto the bathroom floor if the wax seal is damaged. You can replace the seat yourself, but hiring a qualified plumber for the job is a faster and more trustworthy option.
Leaks at the toilet’s base are often ugly as well as unclean. They come from the polluted liquid in your toilet bowl rather than pure water from the toilet tank, unless the water comes from the water shut-off valve behind the toilet. You may need to tighten the tee bolts to secure a loose toilet to the floor in order to fix this germy problem. Alternatively, like with the preceding item, the problem might be with the wax seal itself.
While most toilet issues begin in the tank, there is one that begins at the toilet’s base: water leaking out around the base of the toilet bowl and down the floor.
While some condensation is to be expected during the summer, a puddle of water at the base of your toilet suggests a serious problem. Because there’s a good probability this water is contaminated, it’s advised to avoid using your toilet until the situation is resolved.
The wax ring that seals the base of the toilet (the horn) to the drain aperture installed into the floor is usually the source of this problem. To replace the wax ring, you’ll need to remove the toilet but first consult with professionals at Hansen Family Plumbing.
Those droplets on your toilet’s surface aren’t from toilet water or tank water, despite the fact that it appears to be sweating. They’re caused by condensation, which happens when warm, humid interior air meets the chilly surface of your toilet tank. Despite the fact that the droplets may not signal a plumbing issue, all that moisture can cause havoc with your bathroom floor tiles and underlayment. So get to work.
First, make sure the flapper is in excellent working order. The steady flow of water into the toilet tank is caused by a leaking toilet flapper.
Next, try your hand at toilet insulation. To keep the toilet tank clean, you can use a specific foam tank liner.
It’s possible that a toilet that takes more than one minute to refill after a flush is having problems. It’s possible that your float ball (a ball-shaped item that should float atop the water in your tank) has gotten waterlogged, causing the tank to fill more slowly than usual. While you could just replace the float ball and be done with it, it’s best to have a plumber replace this antiquated mechanism with current toilet technology.
Is it okay if you remove the tank cover, refill tube, overflow tube, and float ball? Then it’s possible that a partially closed or faulty water fill valve (located behind the toilet and connected to a pipe) is to blame. Make sure it’s completely open. Examine the fill valve (located on the left side of the tank) for signs of wear and tear, mineral sediment accumulation, or inappropriate alignment. If one of these vital valves is significantly worn or broken, you may need to have it replaced by a professional HFP plumber.
The flush valve is the second most important component. The flush valve is a plastic or brass fitting connecting to the tank’s bottom entrance and is located in the center of the tank. A rubber or neoprene flapper or a float ball is used to operate it. The flapper, also known as a float ball, sits against the valve opening and retains water in the tank until the flush handle is turned on. When the handle is depressed, the flapper is lifted away from the valve seat by a chain or lift wire linked to the handle rod, allowing water to flush out of the tank and into the toilet bowl. When the tank is empty, the flapper returns to its original position in the valve seat, closing the opening and enabling water to flow again.
A vertical overflow tube is built into the flush valve and extends up into the tank from the base of the flush valve. The overflow tube has two purposes: it prevents the tank from overflowing and it allows a little quantity of water to flow down into the toilet bowl while the tank is being refilled. During the refill cycle, a tiny refill tube inserted into the top of the overflow tube permits a little trickle of water to flow down into the bowl. The amount of standing water in the toilet bowl is restored, and the trap is shut.
Installing a new toilet seat takes about two minutes: simply position the seat and tighten the nuts. Removing the old seat, on the other hand, may be a time-consuming and difficult process. The fasteners that secure the seat are frequently rusted to the point that they are impossible to undo. But there’s no need to blow out since we’ve found a solution.
Take a look at the bolts that hold the seat in place first. If the bolts or nuts are made of plastic, they will not rust and will simply come out. To reveal the bolt’s head, just pry open the cover below the seat. With pliers or a screwdriver, unscrew the bolt while holding the nut beneath with the pliers.
You probably have a blocked or inadequately vented toilet if air bubbles rise up through the toilet bowl (except when it flushes) or if the water level rises and falls. This toilet bubbling issue is exacerbated by the presence of nearby equipment, such as a clothes dryer. Your drain line is suffocating from a lack of oxygen.
If you pour liquid from a can without a second hole for air, you’ll find that it doesn’t flow evenly. The plumbing vent pipe is in the same boat. Air is required to equalize the pressure in the drain pipe as water flows down it.
This is what a venting system is for. Water pouring down the drains will pull water from surrounding P-traps if the drain pipes in your home have inadequate venting. The toilet bowl drain is essentially a P-trap. If the problem has only recently arisen, it is most likely due to a clogged drain or a plumbing vent pipe that has to be “snaked” out. Because the water in the toilet is dripping and gurgling, the problem is most likely in that location.
Unfortunately, repairing a blocked or missing vent is difficult due to the fact that it typically necessitates breaking into the walls to inspect the drain system. This project is best left to a professional unless you have prior plumbing knowledge. You’ll be able to avoid one of the 100 plumbing problems.When you want high-quality plumbing services, Hansen Family Plumbing is the company to call. We provide cost-effective repair, installation, and cleaning services. Furthermore, we back up all of our work with a warranty. Contact us TODAY at (480) 356-9587 and we will make sure you are in the right hands.